Advice I Dissagree With: Garment Fit

So, I recently started using tumblr and I decided to follow a popular tips-and-tricks tumblr feed for lolita. Why? I don’t know. Half the time I read it, I run into mistakes which irk me, and tonight was no different.

Someone asked how much bigger clothes (garment size) should be than their body size and got an answer that basically went “most things have shirring, and so you should just be within the range, but if you are the same size as the maximum measurement, you should look for reviews because some brands run small”

Now, maybe the person who writes this column is a very small individual who simply has never run into that situation; I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt that it’s something like that… but that’s really not the answer the person was asking for. Yes, your average sweet lolita JSK has some shirring in the back… but blouses? Not so much. Also, some classical brands like Victorian Maiden and Mary Magdalene rarely put shirring in their dresses, and while Innocent World offers many shirred JSKs, they usually don’t put shirring in their OPs or Blouses.

First of all, since it’s something a lot of people don’t pick up right away, Japanese brands don’t post size charts with the measurements of the people that fit in the garment. They post up the physical measurements of the outside of the garment, measured flat with a tape measure.

So, that said, if you are the same measurements as a blouse, it won’t fit. If it’s a button up blouse, or a blouse with pintucks… doubly so. (In fact, anything with pintucks can’t be too tight or it looks terrible, trust me. Been there, done that.)

Innocent world recommends that you buy clothing with a maximum measurement that is 4cm-5cm bigger than your measurements. This is not because the garments are flawed; it’s because human beings breathe and physics won’t let you occupy the same space as the fabric. Now, granted, you can physically put on a dress sometimes if you are the same (or, more rarely slightly larger) than the max measurements. That doesn’t mean it fits. It means your body is re-positioning you out of the way of the fabric. Unless the garment is a corset, or other similar garment, you don’t want this. First of all, it’s not flattering. Second of all, it puts strains on the seams, and if there is corset lacing in the back that goes through lace, it can destroy the lace. In an ideal world, you want to be able to take a deep breath and not have any resistance… but still not have your clothing be baggy.

So, now that we’ve established that; this extra space, or ease, should not be included in the measurements you give a shopping service when ordering on taobao. Taobao shops are asking for your exact body measurements, and then they add ease. If it’s winter, they add a lot of it for layering apparently, so you might consider looking up sizing reviews and possibly mention to your SS that you want the ease to be the summer amount if you are concerned. When you give measurements to a seamstress, you can specify that they are body measurements, though it’s typically assumed. If you measured a garment, and the measurements you are giving are garment measurements, you always want to mention that, because it’s usually not done that way.

Two more things to think about. If an Angelic Pretty item has shirring, but only one measurement is recorded on their site/hellolace/lolibrary, it’s the minimum measurement. If you are buying second hand on closet child and the measurement seems impossibly small (like a 35cm waist), double it. Sometimes they post flat measurements where they only measured across one side and haven’t doubled it. In those cases, they usually have not stretched the shirring all the way either so you can guesstimate another couple cm on shirred items (but not too many).

That said, if you buy an item with corset lacing and you are worried it won’t fit, try taking the lace-up ribbon out entirely before you try it on. As long as it’s not going through impossibly small holes, it shouldn’t be too terrible to put back in later, and it’s so much easier and a lot more accurate. If it’s looped through lace and you are closer to the maximum measurement than the minimum, you might consider just keeping it out so you don’t pull the lace.

Day Dream Carnival – Online Order Popularity

Angelic Pretty Day Dream CarnivalSometimes, I get curious about what color/cut of a popular Angelic Pretty Release is most popular in Japan. (I also have an older post of pictures)

And so, I sit up (usually waiting for it to show up on the international site) and I track how fast different colors of each piece sell out in local time so I can plan my second and third choice for that release… or just for curiosities sake.

I’ve done that for Day Dream Carnival tonight. Please note that times are not exact to the second, and that they are all in Eastern Standard Time (East Coast USA). Under each time is the item that sold out at that time. Totally Out indicates that the item is now sold out in all colors.

10:01PM
All in Stock

10:03
Tiered JSK (lavender)
lv_001

10:05
Tiered JSK (sax)
Bonet (lavender)
sx_001lv_006

10:06
Bonet (Sax)
sx_006

10:07
Blouse (Sax)
sx_008

10:12
Tiered JSK (Ivory)
Skirt (Black)
iv_001 bk_003

10:13
Wrist cuffs (lavender)
lv_010

10:16
Tiered JSK (Black) (TOTALY OUT)
bk_001

10:18
Headbow (lavender)
Headbow (black)
bk_005 lv_005

10:21
OP (Sax)
sx

10:22
headbow (Ivory)
JSK (Lavender)
iv_005 lv_002

10:23
headbow (Sax)
sx_005

10:30
OP (lavender)
lv

10:32
OP (Ivory)
JSK (Ivory)
Skirt (Lavender)
iv iv_002lv_003

10:35
Salopette (Sax)
sx_004

10:36
JSK (Black) (TOTALLY OUT)
bk_002

10:37
Salopette (Ivory)
iv_004

10:39
Salopette (Lavender)
lv_004

10:41
OP (black) (TOTALLY OUT)
Day Dream Carnival OP

10:45
Salopette (black) (TOTALLY OUT)
Skirt (Sax)
Bonet (Ivory)
Blouse (black)
bk_004sx_003iv_006 bk_008

10:48
Skirt (Ivory) (TOTALLY OUT)
iv_003

10:52
Bonnet (Pink)
Blouse (Lavender)
pk lv_008

10:55
Wrist Cuffs (Ivory)
iv_010

11:00 PM
Short socks (Lavender)
Short socks (Ivory)
lv_007 iv_007

11:03
Blouse (Ivory)
Bonet (black) (TOTALLY OUT)
iv_008 bk_006

11:08
Wrist Cuffs (Pink)
Wrist Cuffs (Black) (TOTALLY OUT)
pk_004 bk_011

11:13
Gloves (pink)
pk_003

11:16
Short socks (Sax)
pk_001

11:50
Gloves (White)
wh

12:09AM
Tights (Lavender)
lv1

(I stopped checking as frequently at this point since it was clear things weren’t moving quick)
1:52AM
Short Socks (Black)
Tights (Ivory)
Gloves (Black) (TOTALLY OUT)
Blouse (Pink) (TOTALLY OUT)
bk_007iv2bk_009pk_002

5:34AM
Tights (Sax)
Short Socks (Pink)
sx2 pk_001

Still Available:
Tights (Black, Sax)
bk2

Coming Soon from Innocent World: チョコレートファウンテン (Chocolate Fountain)

Every now and then, Innocent World takes a dive into the super-sweet world that is normally dominated by Angelic Pretty and makes a brightly colored, super-sweet print with all the classical hallmarks of Innocent World, and when they do, it’s absolutely fantastic. One of my absolute, all-time favorite prints is Innocent World’s Strawberry Field Animals, and this, their brand new チョコレートファウンテン (Chocolate Fountain) print is certainly edging into that same territory.

Innocent World Chocolate Fountain チョコレートファウンテン JSK
Do you see all that fake fruit dipped in chocolate she has going on? It’s so wonderfully over the top without being cartoony or cheap (at least, it doesn’t look cheap to me). And those stripes! and those bows! …and the fact that she has kiwi on her dress.

Innocent World Chocolate Fountain チョコレートファウンテン OP
So far, it looks likely that it comes in Sax, Pink and Off-white. The Blouse comes in Brown, White or Off-white, the socks come in black, Off-white, White and Cafe au Lait (but not brown). The hat comes with a Brown, Off-white or Black ribbon, and the headbow comes in Off-white, Brown, Red or Sax.

Prices and names as listed in the GLB#47:

Innocent World Chocolate Fountain チョコレートファウンテン Skirt Blouse Hat

I totally want this. I actually think the off-white is probably the best color in this, but off-white doesn’t suite me, so I’ll probably go with sax or pink. I’m leaning towards the JSK, because I don’t think the bodice of the OP would flatter my shape.

Update:

Innocent world has put it up for reserve this weekend. I put in an order for the pink JSK, the white blouse, the white socks, and a hat with a brown hat bad. Here is hoping! And, here are the stock photos:

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